Make these letters!

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Paper pulp is one of my new favorite mediums. For one thing, it’s nearly free to make, and secondly, it doesn’t take any fancy equipment or any previous knowledge to use. The only real downfall is that it does take patience. The other thing that can go terribly wrong is mold. I live in a humid climate and I’ve had pieces get totally moldy and had to throw them away. I’ll give you some tips for preventing mold throughout. Paper pulp projects are not the kind you can complete in one sitting.

Click the link below to read on: 

I made these initials for the entryway to my studio, since I’m in a shared space, it’s nice to have something by the door so everyone knows it’s you!

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Start by shredding (or cutting, which I found easier) newspaper into about half inch strips. 

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For just two letters, I used maybe four big sheets of the newspaper until my bowl was full (without squishing the paper down).

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Then, fill the bowl with water until the water level covers all of the paper. You might want to squish down the paper now just to make sure it’s all fully submerged. Leave this overnight.

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Next, you’ll need some flour and salt, and you might as well fill a cup with water now, because you might need a bit in a few steps. Flour is what holds the fibers together, it acts as your glue. Some paper pulp recipes don’t call for salt, but let me tell you, if you live somewhere humid, you are going to want the salt. It’s going to help prevent mold.

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Go ahead and drain the water out of your mixing bowl. Don’t squeeze the paper though, you’ll want to keep the water that the paper has absorbed.

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Start adding flour, I used about a third cup of flour to start.

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Don’t forget the salt! I just eyeball it, probably about two tablespoons for this much paper.

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Start kneading the paper, flour and salt mixture. Spend a lot of time now ripping up the paper so there are no big chunks left. It will begin to look like this. At this point, it needs more flour, as it’s not all sticking together.

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Add another scoop of flour and continue to knead the mixture. It should start sticking together almost like cookie dough. If it keeps falling apart, add a little water (be conservative) and mix it in.

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This is nearly ready, but needs a tiny bit of water (think 1/8 of a cup) and more flour.

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Once the whole thing is able to hold together in a ball, it’s ready. Keep adding flour and water until you can get it like this. Altogether, it should take at least 30 minutes of kneading to get the right texture.

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Now take half of it (for two letters) and form the outside of the letter.

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Then, punch out the holes.

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Once you have your letters ready, let them sit out on a cooling rack. You’ll need the extra airflow for them to dry completely. This part takes time. If you are going to let them air dry, leave them for 3-5 days. Otherwise, put them in the oven (on the rack) on 200 degrees Fahrenheit for about 2 hours or until dried out. Check them constantly! You could start a fire by putting paper in your oven. The oven method will also help prevent molding.

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Now, you have these kind of ugly dried paper pulp letters! I like them lumpy, it’s a cool funky look, but if you don’t like them like this, use a piece of sandpaper to smooth your edges. If you chose to let your letters air dry, check them for mold. If you see signs of mold, I would get rid of them. That smell will never go away.

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This step is optional, but I painted a coat of gesso before going to colors. This is a better base for acrylic paints.

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Now, you can paint them however you want! I wanted a half yellow, half pink mix, so I taped them off and did the colors separately.

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Here they are almost done!

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While the paint dries, you can make a few pom poms to decorate. There are so many pom pom tutorials out there, that I’m not gonna walk you through this one.

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I added a coat of acrylic gloss medium, because I can’t stand the texture of acrylic paint, but this is totally optional.

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Add a bright string. If your letters don’t have counters (aka holes) then you can use an awl or a drill to make them.

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Braid together your pom poms and attach them to the string, I used a tiny bit of hot glue to get my pom poms to lie where I wanted them.

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And done!!

Tools of the trade: curved needles

I’m starting a series of posts where I introduce or review tools. Mostly, it will be positive reviews of tools I love, but occasionally I plan to write about things that are absolutely not worth spending money on. These will probably come up at random as I’m making a project, but I’ll try to go back occasionally and link to any project where I used the featured tool. For the most part, I try to use what I have and not constantly buy new things, but sometimes you just need the right tool for the job. Many times the things I find most useful aren’t too expensive, so hopefully you can build your toolbox along the way without spending a fortune.

One of the most useful tools I have found is only a couple of dollars. I was introduced to this tool in college during a bookbinding class, and I found mine at a drug store for $2. Introducing, the curved needle. I would suggest the heavy duty needle combo pack, because a lot of these needles come in handy for other stuff too, and it’s affordable.

When you see it at a store, you might think, what could it possibly be used for?! Most recently, I made a papier-mache hanging. When it came time to actually hang the piece, I realized how difficult it would be to get a string through the top. That’s where the curved needle comes in. Punch through the top with the needle to get the space right, and then send the needle down into the papier-mache piece and out it comes the other hole. Basically anytime you don’t have access to the inside of something, a curved needle is your new pal. It can reach around and in spots that straight needles just don’t work for.

Make this shirt!

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I have wanted a vintage huipil for a while now. The really good vintage ones are pretty pricey, so while I save my money for an old one, I made a quick and really affordable version of my own. Huipils are traditionally worn by indigenous women in Mexico and Central America. I mixed that traditional shape with a Japanese style sashiko stitch to embellish my DIY version. 

Click the link below to read full instructions: 

Below are some examples of traditional huipils.

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Top left, top right, bottom.

Let’s get started, this is probably the easiest top you will ever make.

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Supplies:
cotton fabric (one yard)
white embroidery thread
measuring tape
tailor’s chalk
needle
pins
sewing machine optional

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Start with measuring and cutting. You’ll fold the fabric at 25 inches up, this fold will be approximately the top of the shoulder part. Then make it 25 inches wide. So, in total it will be 50 inches tall and 25 wide. Once you’ve measured (twice) and cut, fold your fabric in half so you are looking at a square piece 25 inches tall, 25 inches wide with a fold at the top.

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Next, we are going to cut out the neck hole. You can either just measure from the center or print out this template and center it on the fold, then cut. Either way, you’ll need the dimensions from this template to make your cuts.

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The next step you can either do with a sewing machine or by hand. Measure, fold and pin a half inch seam on each side. You can either hand sew this seam, or machine sew it. Obviously it will go quicker with a machine, but if you do a hand stitch, consider a blanket stitch for a more embellished look. Sew both sides all the way along the edge.

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Now that your sides are seamed, it’s time to finish the neck edging. I used a tailor’s buttonhole stitch to get the look I was going for, but you could also use a blanket stitch or machine stitch the edges for a clean seam. I used this tutorial to learn the tailor’s buttonhole stitch. Basically, you just wrap the thread once around the needle every time you come up for a stitch.

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Now comes the fun part! You get to add decorative embroidery to the neck area. You can choose as big of an area as you want to. I made mine relatively small, but as you can see from my inspiration images, some of the embroidery covers the entire garment. This is where I used some Japanese inspiration and did traditional sashiko stitching around the neck. I drew an outline around the area I wanted to cover.

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Then made guidelines so I would be able to keep my vertical stitches straight. The sashiko stitches are super simple, just stitch up and down along your vertical lines. Keep going all the way across your embroidery area. You don’t even need an embroidery hoop for these stitches. Once your vertical lines are done, you can add a few horizontals, creating little plus signs for added visual interest.

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Again, I drew an outline with tailor’s chalk around the area I wanted horizontal lines.

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Then I added the horizontal lines in a small area.

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Once you feel done with the decorative part, the last step is to finish your arm holes. You absolutely have to try it on to get the underarm seam in the right spot. Pull the shirt over your head and get it settled on your shoulders. Now pin under your arm, I suggest using a mirror to make sure it covers your bra, but still gives you enough space to be comfortable. Don’t worry if the “top” of your shirt doesn’t match up with your original fold line you made in step one.

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Once you determine where your underarm seam starts, put a pin there and then take off the shirt. I wanted a loose, crop style, so I only sewed 4.5 inches down from this spot, but if you don’t want such a loose fit, you can sew further down.

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I used a tailor’s buttonhole stitch again here to match my neck seam. Once you do one side, fold your garment in half and pin the opposite side to match.

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Sew your second side.

At this point, the back is probably shorter than the front, I chose to leave it like this, but if you want to even them out, cut the front a few inches shorter. I also left my bottom edge ragged, but if you like a cleaner look, go ahead and seam the bottom edges.

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I hand washed mine to get rid of the chalk marks and it was ready to wear.

Congrats! You now have your very own huipil. I think my materials on this were $6 for the fabric, and maybe $1 of embroidery thread. I spread this project out over three days, but in total probably spent less than 3 hours on it. Pretty good deal knowing the vintage ones run $100+, but totally understandable considering the amount of time embroidery takes.

2016

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I’ve officially been a freelancer for 2 years now. Year one was all about survival, I took any and every job that came across my desk. Year two was about enjoying that freelance life, I took a lot of afternoons off and went on quite a few trips. I want year three to be about getting the kind of work I dream about. I want dream jobs and dream clients. I spent last week at home thinking about what I want 2016 to look like.

I’m not really into New Year’s Resolutions, but here’s a few goals for the new year.

Make more of what I want and less of what clients want
Save some money
Stick with the capsule wardrobe
Get back to a workout routine
Visit at least one new country
Make more art

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So, now that that’s out in the world I have to stick to it, right?